Exploring Muscat

Posted on Aug 19 2014 - 9:48pm by Len Rutledge

It is hot outside. Very hot! I have never experienced 48 degrees Celsius before and I don’t like it. My wife and I are in Muscat the capital of Oman, an Arab state on the southeast coast of the Arabian Peninsula. Despite the heat we are out and about sightseeing because the weather forecast is for this weather to last another two or three months.

Muscat is a spread-out city of mainly low-level white buildings. The port-district with its waterfront road and harbour forms the north-eastern periphery of the city. This is probably the most interesting area for visitors although most of the better accommodation is elsewhere. It is where you find most of the following attractions.

Qasr Al Alam Royal Palace


The Qasr Al Alam Palace is the ceremonial palace of His Majesty Sultan Qaboos, ruler of Oman. It was built by Imam Sultan bin Ahmed over 200 years ago and the current Sultan is a direct descendent. The gold and blue palace  was rebuilt as a royal residence in 1972. Visitors are not allowed inside  even though the Sultan normally lives elsewhere in Oman but you are allowed to take photographs from the outside. The Palace is used for official functions and receiving distinguished visitors.

Fort al-Jalal

al-Jalal Fort

This is a fort in the harbor of the old city. It was built by the Portuguese in the 1580’s to protect the harbor after Muscat had twice been sacked by foreign forces. Until the 1970s it was used as Oman’s main prison, then was restored in 1983 and converted into a private museum of Omani cultural history, that is accessible only to dignitaries. The fort consists of two towers connected by a wall punctuated by holes for cannons. The building is completely isolated and cannot be accessed from its rocky façade; instead there is a small bridge and stairway

Al-Mirani Fort

Al-Mirani Fort

This was built at the same time as Al-Jalali Fort. Looking down over Muscat’s Old Town from its cliff top perch, it is one of Oman’s most striking landmarks, guarding the entrance to Muscat Bay. Unfortunately it is not open to the public but at night the spotlighted citadel appears like a fairy-tale castle. It can be reached by climbing a flight of stairs carved into the rock. There are two circular towers at the ends of the fort and another tower, almost semi-circular in shape, which rises above the rest of the fort and dominates the surrounding landscape.

Mutrah Fort

Mutrah Fort

Overlooking the town is this imposing fort which merges into the cliff on which it sits. The fort was built by the Portuguese during their occupation in the 1580’s.If you are adventurous it is possible to scale the steps that wind up the side of the cliff edge and from the top there are some great views.

Mutrah Corniche

Looking towards the Corniche

With its promenade, markets, cafés and restaurants, this is one of the highlights of the city. The Corniche stretches for three kilometres overlooking the port and clear blue sea. There are gardens and fountains along its length, while at the western end there is a fruit and vegetable market, a fish market and a fishing dhow port.

Towards the east you can see the Mutrah Fort raised high upon the rocks, explore a maze of narrow streets and traditional souks, or visit the Bait Al Baranda Museum.

Fish market

Fish market

The main fish hall is full of traders in traditional dress selling everything from shell fish to gigantic tuna. The sellers are very friendly and happy to answer questions and they generally allow photos if you ask first. You can see the boats coming in, the fish spread out on benches and in tubs, and people buying  fish for their families.

Mutrah Souq


One of the oldest markets in Oman, dating back about two hundred years is also one of its most interesting. You don’t get a good impression  from the outside, as it is hidden behind other development and stretches from a gate facing the Sea of Oman and Mutrah Corniche, to another gate in the city’s old quarter, but inside it is marvellous.

Mutrah Souq is a modern interpretation of old Eastern markets, with narrow winding roofed alleys and central plazas filled with activity. The souq has many shops selling jewellery, traditional Omani handicrafts, clothes and several cafes selling Omani food at reasonable prices. Some shops accept credit cards.

Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque

Inside the mosque

This is the third largest mosque in the world and non-Muslims may visit from 8AM to 11AM every day except Friday. Ladies are expected to keep their heads, ankles and wrists covered while visiting the mosque. This is the only attraction in this post which is not in or near the old city.

The whole complex is stunning. Highlights are the gigantic Swarovski crystal chandelier, the enormous hand-made Persian carpet which took 600 women three years to make, and the marble panelling.

Elsewhere in the city sandy Qurum beach is one of Muscat’s most popular beaches and is a good place for a swim or just to relax under the palm trees on a sun-lounger. It is an open public beach with coffee shops and cafes close by for refreshments.

Len Rutledge
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About the Author

Len Rutledge has been travel writing for 40 years. During that time he has written thousands of newspaper articles, numerous magazine pieces, more than a thousand web reviews and around 35 travel guide books. He has worked with Pelican Publishing, Viking Penguin, Berlitz, the Rough Guide, and the Nile Guide amongst others. Along the way, he has started a newspaper, a travel magazine, a Visitor and TV Guide, and completed a PhD in tourism. His travels have taken him to more than 100 countries and his writings have collected a PATA award, an ASEAN award, an IgoUgo Hall of Fame award, and other recognition. He is the author of the Experience Guidebook series which currently includes Experience Thailand, Experience Norway, Experience Northern Italy, Experience Myanmar, Experience Istanbul, Experience Singapore, Experience Melbourne, and Experience Ireland. They are available as ebooks or paperbacks from amazon.com