Tag Archives: san juan

Editor's Picks, Luxury Travel, North America

San Juan is not your normal U.S. city

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Words: Len Rutledge   Images: Phensri Rutledge

Narrow cobblestone streets, cute little squares with spraying fountains and huge trees, enormous Spanish-built forts and restaurants serving spicy Mexican and Cuban fare are not normal in most North American cities.

But then little about San Juan, Puerto Rico is normal. It is far from what we expected. My scant knowledge of Puerto Rico was strongly influenced by the musical ‘West Side Story” where white and Puerto Rican gangs battle for the streets of a section of New York.

Central square San Juan

I half expected to find knife-wielding gangs on the streets of San Juan. Instead, my wife and I found colourful buildings, delightful architecture, friendly people, and a love for an island that has a unique relationship with the USA. Hurricane Maria caused considerable damage to the island in 2017 but San Juan has bounced back and is again open for visitors.

Is it part of the USA?

Puerto Rico is technically part of the United States. Puerto Ricans are U.S. citizens and make up about 1.3% of the total population of the U.S. They enjoy all the benefits of citizenship, except one: Puerto Ricans who live in Puerto Rico cannot vote for the U.S. President.

But it is not this straight forward. In the Olympic Games, Puerto Rico fields its own athletic team, separate from the USA team. Puerto Ricans don’t file federal income tax returns unless they work for the U.S. government. Bookstores in the U.S. put travel guides to Puerto Rico in their “International Travel” section rather than “Domestic Travel,” where they belong. No wonder we were confused!

Flags flying above the old Spanish fort

Old San Juan

Nearly two million people live in or near San Juan and many of them rarely set foot in Old San Juan. For tourists, it is entirely different. Many visitors see nothing of the wider city except for the drive from the airport to the old city.

Old San Juan lies within a 500-year-old walled citadel that has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Medieval masonry and cantilevered balconies seem to float above the narrow cobblestone streets below. The streets are perfect for wandering and seem to insist you explore all their secret nooks and crannies.

They are lined with antique iron lampposts, arty shops and souvenir stores. There are pavement cafes in the squares and beautiful old buildings and churches look out to wide views of the ocean. Musicians play on the streets just like in Europe.

Cool courtyards decorated with European flair hide behind the shops and pavement cafes, inviting you to enter. It is more Spanish than many areas of Spain.

Spanish influence

In 1493, Christopher Columbus “discovered” Puerto Rico and claimed it for Spain. Some years later, the Spanish started their colonisation. Puerto Rico’s geographic position at the western edge of the Caribbean made San Juan one of the key frontier outposts of Spain’s West Indies Empire.

The Spanish built a small fort here in 1540 and then constructed the walls that encircled the city in 1634. The work continued into the mid 1700′s when the King of Spain decided to make San Juan virtually unconquerable.

The walls and two massive forts are some of the major attractions today. No visit would be complete without spending time exploring the fortifications and marvelling at the impressive structures. Guided tours are available for those who want them.

The city is surrounded by massive defence walls

Elsewhere in the city the Cathedral, which was commenced in 1521, is worth seeing and there are several museums. The Museum of the Americas is in a wonderfully restored building while the Museum of Art has local works displayed in a building which itself is a work of art. The Casa Blanca Museum showcases life in the 16th and 17th centuries.

Old San Juan is reasonably compact but it is hilly and is usually hot. If you are not comfortable with a lot of walking, there are free trolleys that will take you around the old city.

Eating, shopping and Staying

The area has some excellent restaurants, fast food outlets, markets, shops and several small hotels. The Hotel El Convento is generally considered the best (and most expensive) accommodation but there are several others in charming old buildings with Spanish ambiance.

Souvenir shopping in San Juan is a treat or a nightmare depending on your point of view. The Old City could be one of the most souvenir-clogged areas on the planet but there are some interesting buys amongst the ‘junk’. Iconic vejigante masks are found at numerous shops, hand-carved wooden figurines of saints called santos are unusual buys, and hand-made Panama hats are useful and a great keepsake.

Outside the Old City, Condado hugs the beach to the east and has many similarities to Miami Beach or Australia’s Gold Coast. Here’s where expensive hotels, and the casinos inside many of them, attract night-life-seeking locals and tourists alike.

A final suggestion is to visit the slick Casa Bacardi Visitor Center across San Juan Bay in Cataño. You’ll pass through seven different zones covering both the history of the company and the rum-making process and have a taste of some of the brew. The best part is that it’s all free.

If you go

Getting there: Various airlines fly to San Juan from mainland USA. There are also direct flights from Madrid, some Caribbean islands and a few South American countries.

Visas: Puerto Rico is technically part of the USA so the same visitor requirements apply. You need to organise a travel authorisation or a tourist visa before leaving home.

When to Visit: Puerto Rico is hot between June and September and warm at other times of the year. January to March receives less rain than other months.

 

www.LenRutledge.com

Travel Planning, Travel Tips, Travelling with Kids

Getaway Ideas for Parents Who Are Usually Too Busy

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When you become a parent, you accept that you won’t have many of the kind of footloose and fancy-free vacations that you used to have. It’s just part of the territory. Trips away now generally include the kids, rather than being romantic breaks for two.

But you can, and indeed should, still have an occasional vacation with just the two of you. The daily grind of parenting can be relentless. There’s always something to do, someone who needs you. Faces to wipe, homework to help with, dinner to cook, bottles to wash. It’s good for you, your relationship and your family to get away without the kids once in awhile. Ask the grandparents for a weekend babysitting favor, and jet off somewhere amazing for a couple of days. You’ll return relaxed, refreshed and ready to go again. 

Here are our ideas for the best weekend getaway locations for parents:

New York City

New York City is a classic weekend break destination. The city that never sleeps is packed with things to do all day and all night long. It is the world’s busiest and most exciting city, with endless bars, restaurants, shops, galleries and museums to explore. Whatever you want to do, you’ll find it in New York. 
The best thing about New York is the way it mixes a big city feel with distinctive neighborhoods. This makes it easy to plan a short break because you can choose what you want to do and pick the neighborhood to hang out in. Even if you’ve been to the Big Apple many times before, you’ll find somewhere else to go that is new to you. 
If you’re a New York virgin (or even if you’re not) start with a trip up the Empire State Building or the Rockefeller Center to check out the views and get your bearings. Then take a wander down to 5th Avenue for some indulgent shopping, and head out to East Village for lunch in one of the latest hip restaurants. Spend time strolling through Battery Park to work up an appetite for dinner, which you could follow up with a Broadway show or a night out dancing. 
New York is definitely best enjoyed child-free.

Vancouver

Vancouver offers the perfect combination of city break and outdoor life. One of the world’s most beautiful cities, it is backed by snow-capped mountains and fringed with sandy ocean beaches, but still has a trendy, urban feel with plenty of nightlife and café culture. 
Head to the cobbled streets of Gastown, Vancouver’s old quarter, and take a wander. You’ll find lots of cozy cafes and hipster bars, some great independent stores and a vibrant restaurant scene. Nearby Chinatown was built around the same time and hosts everything from edgy bars to traditional Chinese grocery stores. 
When you’ve had enough of city exploration, you won’t have to go far to get some fresh air. Head to Stanley Park, the city’s green lungs. An 8km trail takes you around the seawall, through forest trees. Walk it, or hire a bike. After that, head to the beach to chill out, or travel up to the mountains. Time your visit right and you could ski in the morning and sunbathe in the afternoon.

Charleston, South Carolina

If you’re desperate to slow down and stroll, Charleston could be just perfect. It’s warm, beautiful and relaxed, and offers a completely different pace of life to almost anywhere else. Take a wander through its cobbled streets, which are lit with gas-lamps at night time, and enjoy its beautiful antique buildings. 
Amongst all the history, you’ll find some fabulous modern restaurants, with plenty of innovative cuisine on offer. Take some time to browse through Charleston City Market, for a real taste of the Old South. And if you want a day at the beach, it’s just down the road at Sullivan’s Island. The weather is good too, with a November average of 76 degrees. 

San Juan, Puerto Rico

San Juan is another great choice if you want a bit of beach and a bit of culture. It’s a hassle-free choice if you want to spend a weekend in the Caribbean, as you won’t need a passport.  San Juan is a vibrant Spanish colonial city, complete with pastel colored plazas and fortified walls. You can spend hours wandering the streets, taking in the architecture, soaking up the vibes and visiting art galleries. 
When you’ve worked up a sweat from all that walking, it’s time to hit the beach. San Juan boasts an impressive strip of palm-fringed sand, lined with beach bars and restaurants. If you want to check out a family vacation in the Caribbean or something more luxurious just for the two of you, those are options as well. 

Las Vegas, Nevada

If you’re feeling like being a little naughty, Sin City is your place. It’s big and brash, but a couple of days in Vegas is sure to make you forget all about your everyday life of kids and work. 
Treat it as a wonderful opportunity to escape, and embrace that brashness. Go for a wander down the strip, take a gondola ride at the Venetian hotel, spend some time in the casinos and see one of the famous Vegas shows. It’s a place to really indulge and go as wild as you like. 
Destinations, Sport and Adventure, Travel Tips

Best Family Cycling Routes in the World

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Best Family Cycling Routes in the World

If you’re looking for a new and exciting way to have a family adventure and see the world, then consider cycling. It’s an activity that’s great for the whole family, it’s not too fast nor too slow, it’s cheap and good for fitness and health, so it’s not a surprise more and more people choose bikes to travel with. If you want to join the trend, here’s where you can start from.

Otago Central Rail Trail, New Zealand

This popular 150-kilometre trail will take you through right back in time through the once-crowded goldfields of Otago, New Zealand. Central Rail Trail connects Clyde and Middlemarch while passing through many valleys and little hills. This trail is perfect for all levels of cyclists because it never gets steep, but it still offers amazing views and beautiful nature. Even if this is a short ride, you can still stretch it, thanks to the abundance of pubs and B&Bs you’ll want to check out.

Confederation Trail, Canada

This island is just perfect for cyclists, so much that a long time ago, all motor vehicles were even banned from the island. Prince Edward Island is flat, rich in produce and food and blessed with beautiful nature such as its red cliffs around Basin Head and sand dunes in PEI National Park. So, if you don’t have enough time to check out all 470 kilometres of the trail, make sure to check out those beautiful cliffs and dunes. PEI also has some high-quality food you taste, so don’t miss out.

San Juan Island, USA/Canada

Right between Vancouver and Seattle is San Juan Island, called by many “cycling perfection”. These islands are perfect for families of all kinds because each island can be toured in a day, the weather is nice, it’s relatively flat, and there are ample ferry connections between each island. This archipelago is contained from over 100 islands, but most cyclists choose San Jan, Orcas or Lopez.

Lopez is the tamest of the three, while Orcas is perfect for more seasoned cyclists (but it offers amazing views). If you still choose Orcas, make sure to keep both eyes open for orcas as you paddle along the coast. Your kids are going to love those beautiful predators. Also, accommodation on the islands is plentiful, so you can stay a couple of days and enjoy your time together.

Isle of Wight, England

The Isle of Wight is known as one of the most bike-friendly places in Britain and is also included in Lonely Planet’s 10 best cycling destinations. It has many scenic towns, narrow lanes, and white cliffs, and you can see all that while paddling a route that’s barely over 100 km long. It makes a perfect 2-day journey for biker families.

Murray to the Mountains, Victoria, Australia

This gentle trail of only 83 km will give you a great insight into Victoria’s High Country. It can be cycled in a day, but you better stretch it out for at least two, because there’s so much to see and taste there. The route passes many cellars, hotels, and restaurants you shouldn’t miss. If you’re a family that has very little or no cycling experience, then be free to start with this trail. You’re not going to need much, just some solid bikes, helmets and some Shimano mtb shoes, and soon you’ll be ready for some more challenging adventures.

Arusha Trail, Tanzania

If you want to experience a true adventure and travel a bit further from home, then why not visit Africa for a cool safari trip. When you get bored of sitting in a jeep, you can take a bike ride through the lush landscape of Arusha just in the foothills of Kilimanjaro. Saying that the views are beautiful is an understatement, and you can see many interesting villages, coffee plantations, cow markets and chat with friendly locals. You and your kids will remember this for the rest of your lives.

Hanoi, Vietnam

Vietnam is widely famous for being a cycling country. Its also a stunningly beautiful country with many different cycling routes you can take to enjoy a perfect, relaxing vacation while taking in all the natural splendors along the way. Whether its urban centers like Ho Chi Minh or Hanoi, or the beautiful outlands and the Mekong Delta, Vietnam will surely leave a great impression on almost everyone.

As you can see, you don’t have to be a pro cyclist to have a paddling adventure with your family. Take as many stops as you need to get rest, refresh with some local drinks and food, and take in all the beautiful scenery our planet has to offer. You’ll be itching to have another adventure as soon as you get home.