Tag Archives: Romantic Road

Germany’s Romantic Road is Ideal for Slow Travel

Germany’s Romantic Road is Ideal for Slow Travel

Words: Len Rutledge  Images: Phensri Rutledge

Magnificent medieval architecture, the dramatic Alps, pretty green rolling countryside, castles and some of the most picturesque villages in Europe combine to make Germany’s Romantic Road a very special drive. Driving in Europe can be a challenge but this road is perfect for those who wish to take their time and experience the German countryside and explore some delightful towns.

For this Germany’s Romantic Road, we began in Füssen in the south with its large former monastery and castle and finished in Würzburg 350 kilometres to the north. While this drive could have taken four hours, in fact we took three days and felt rushed in the process.

These were some of Germany’s Romantic Road highlights.

Schwangau

This small village is home to one of Germany’s most iconic sights, Schloss Neuschwanstein, the fairy tale castle that inspired Disneyland’s Sleeping Beauty Castle. Commissioned by King Ludwig II of Bavaria as a personal retreat, the castle has enough towers, turrets, balconies, pinnacles and sculptures to satisfy anyone.

You can visit the castle with a timed ticket but you will share the trip with hundreds of others during busy times. I suggest the best view is from Marienbrücke, the suspension bridge behind the castle where you can see the dreamy castle in all its glory.

Germany’s Romantic Road
Schloss Neuschwanstein Castle

If you have the time, also tour the less-visited Hohenschwangau, the neighbouring castle where King Ludwig II grew up and dreamed about his magical castle.

Augsburg

The city was founded in 15 BC and was a free imperial city until the early 19th century. Due to a flourishing textile trade, luxurious palatial homes, civic buildings, baroque fountains and gothic churches were built. You can enjoy them all on a visit today.

Constructed in the early 1600s, the “Rathaus” still serves as the administrative centre of the city. Next to it you can climb an ancient Perlachturm tower, built over 1000 years ago to serve as a watchtower.

Harburg

Towering over the town, Harburg Castle exemplifies medieval architecture. It comes complete with sentry walk, prison tower, dungeon and ballroom. There is a small hotel inside if you wish to stay.

Nördlingen

This has beautifully preserved town walls and the Rieskrater Museum, where you’ll learn about the meteor that struck this area some 15 million years ago. In fact, the entire almost perfectly round walled old town is built inside a massive crater. Because it sees fewer tourists than Rothenburg or Dinkelsbühl, the other two walled towns, it can be enjoyed more quietly.

Dinkelsbühl

Dinkelsbühl was not bombed in the Second World War, so it stands as it was in the Middle Ages, when it was created. It is a gem.

St. George’s Minster, a late 15th-century Gothic masterpiece, dominates the town while magnificent gabled buildings, dating from around 1600, line the central Weinmarkt. Many are now restaurants and cafés. The square hosts many festivals and celebrations throughout the year.

Germany's Romantic Road

I strongly suggest a walk on the town walls with their 18 towers and four gates. The views are nice but the thought of walking where many armed defenders have been over hundreds of years makes it something special.

Rothenburg ob der Tauber

This is a very popular tourist destination overlooking the Tauber River, so it can get quite crowded. You have a real sense of stepping back into Renaissance era Germany and most visitors love it. The narrow cobblestone streets feel like they haven’t changed in hundreds of years.

Late afternoon is the best time after the tourist buses have left and the shops are closing, leaving only the restaurants open. It’s a calm atmosphere allowing you to really take in the town.

Rothenburg’s well-preserved town walls which completely encircle the old town are great for walking along. It is free and it was one of the highlights for us.

Parking is almost impossible inside the walls so we chose a hotel close by with its own car park and we left our car there the whole time.

Germany's Romantic Road
A classic Rothenburg view

Walking along cobbled streets, you’ll notice that each building here is special. There are various popular photo points but we equally enjoyed walking the back streets and making our own discoveries.

Bad Mergentheim

This is home to one of Southern Germany’s spa resorts. If you’re looking for a massage, an Ayurvedic treatment or some time in a sauna, this is the place for you. There is also a large castle and a wonderful Rococo church.

Würzburg

Built around the Main River and surrounded by rolling hills, the city of Würzburg has impressive architecture and a nice vibe.

In 686, three Irish missionaries made a vain attempt to convert the town ruler to Christianity. Later, Würzburg had a bishop appointed and became a duchy as well, and the ruling prince-bishops brought their wealth here causing the city to experience a period of growth and lavishness.

Germany's Romantic Road

You see this today in the Wurzburger Residenz a baroque palace now inscribed on the UNESCO World Cultural Heritage list and once the seat of the reigning prince-bishop; the rococo-style church Käppele; and Festung Marienberg, a medieval fortress high above the city.

www.LenRutledge.com

http://instagram.com/experience_guides

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCX5HUmGP1lR2aoscn3O8

Würzburg has that winning combination

Words: Len Rutledge  Images: Phensri Rutledge

Three Irish missionary monks visited Würzburg in A.D. 686 to Christianize the local ‘barbarians’. The inhospitable locals beheaded them. Fortunately, we find the citizens are much friendlier today, and we also discover there are many things to do, great places to see, and excellent wine and food to enjoy.

Würzburg, at the northern end of Germany’s Romantic Road, has much history, culture, rich cuisine, religious landmarks, and idyllic scenery. It is a great place to visit and the bonus is you can walk between most sites.

Residenz

We start our sightseeing at the majestic UNESCO World Heritage listed 400-room Residenz, one of the most important Baroque palaces in Europe. Unlike many other huge buildings, it was built in a short period of time and was completed in 1780. The building includes a much-acclaimed staircase and awe-inspiring frescos.

We are told that Napoleon Bonaparte slept here for one night in 1812 en route to his unsuccessful invasion of Russia. It is a place we must see. We visit by a self-guided walking tour but there is also a guided tour which allows access to some of the rooms you can’t visit by yourself.

Don’t miss the on-site church. After the walls were completed, a group of court artists created what is one of the most decorative churches you will ever see.

The palace grounds are considered some of the most impressive Rococo gardens in Germany. There is an artificial lake including fountains and some beautifully carved sculptures. There’s a wonderful symmetry that can be appreciated from the higher ground.

Old Town

It is not far from here to the Old Town. Our first stop is at the scenic Market Square, where a daily bustling food and flower market is in full swing. Overlooking the square stands St Mary’s Chapel (Marienkapelle) with its spire 70 metres into the sky. The striking red-and-white facade of the Gothic church is considered the most important building from that era in the city.

Most of Würzburg’s old city is a pedestrian zone so it’s a great place to walk. When you have done enough of that, pull up a chair at a sidewalk café for some people and tram watching.

The construction of Würzburg Cathedral with its twin towers began in 1040 and went on for nearly 200 years. Today, it is the fourth largest Romanesque church in Germany. It is one of the city’s most important landmarks and can be seen from almost everywhere. The interior is fresh after a renovation and is well worth a visit.

The old Würzburg Town Hall sits on Domstrasse between the old bridge and the cathedral. It is a complex of buildings of different periods. The tower dates from the early 1200s and another part of the building is the only surviving secular building in Würzburg that was built in the Romanesque style.

Marienberg Fortress

The old Main Bridge from 1120 spans the river of the same name and is considered the oldest stone bridge in Germany. It connects the old town with the nearby Marienberg Fortress. In 1730, the bridge was further decorated with twelve statues of saints and emperors.

The Fortress, towering over the city and surrounded by vineyards, was began in 704 AD. It was originally a church then the building was expanded in the Renaissance and Baroque periods with the addition of fortifications. For nearly five centuries it served as a home to the local prince-bishops.

Today, the Marienberg Fortress houses the Franconian Museum. You can visit the museum and see the rooms with their period furniture, tapestries and paintings but most people come for the views. Würzburg is surrounded by vineyards cascading down the slopes on both sides of the river and it’s easy to see why this is a good wine producing area. Perched on top of a nearby hill sits the Kappele Church with its onion-domed towers.

Sleeping, eating, and drinking

Don’t miss the opportunity of having a hearty Franconian meal and tasting some of the local wines. A good place to indulge in German regional specialties is The Bürgerspital wine estate restaurant. You can also take a tour through the estate’s famous wine cellar. The best city restaurant is probably the one-Michelin-starred KUNO 1408. It has created its own particular variation on the Franconian theme.

Germany appears to have no restrictions against drinking in public, so apart from drinking in bars you can buy your own bottle of wine or beer and sit on the old bridge enjoying the view.

Würzburg is a great stop either before or after your Romantic Road tour because it has many hotels, inns and B&Bs, including a number of excellent hotels in the Old Town.

www.LenRutledge.com